The richness of this Central Coast white is due largely to lees stirring rather than oak. That’s the technique whereby wine is made to mingle with the spent yeast cells, which helps generate a creamy, fatter mouth feel and greater length of flavour. This entry-level offering from Varner, known for several much more expensive wines, shows a lovely texture. And the lip-smacking acid gives it excellent lift. An impressively balanced, and well-priced, premium Californian. Try it with salmon.