It’s a Beaujolais, so don’t expect chunky heft and smooth oak. That said, Morgon is as serious as otherwise light-and-cheerful Beaujolais gets. It’s relatively soft at first and attractively sweet, with subtle flavours of cherry gum and flowers. Then it turns peppery while sticky tannins deliver grip and structure. Good value for a Morgon and suitable for roast pork. It will also keep well for up to five years in the cellar.