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beer of the week

Those who expect the creamy richness of classic Guinness stout from this new brand extension may be disappointed. But that taste profile was not the aim with this brew, which combines the crispness and vigorous froth of a lager with the dark, roasted-barley character for which the venerable Irish brewer is famous. A U.S. advertisement featuring fashion model Stephanie Garcia in a black dress sets the tone. It's meant to appeal to clubgoers fond of fridge-chilled bottled beer versus the traditionally warmer, pint-glass Guinness pub pour. I think it hits the mark, with very dry, pine-like hoppy bitterness providing backbone to the coffee character of dark-roast barley, carried on moderate, 4.5-per-cent alcohol. Think of it as Heineken in a sexy black dress.

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