Cannonau might be described as a global variety. Extensively planted in France and Australia, where it is known as grenache, it is widely thought to have originated in Spain, where it goes by the name garnacha. Growers in Sardinia would put up a good argument, though, citing centuries-old references to the grape on the Italian island. No matter. Cannonau has a special charm that could hardly be described as common. This bargain from Antichi Poderi Jerzu, a co-operative, shows supple strawberrylike fruit on a medium-full-bodied frame, with baking spices in the background. Suitable for just about any red meat.