I wish this spirit were more regularly and widely available. It’s a true rye-grain whisky, not the corn-centric stuff that accounts for most Canadian “rye.” Where corn supplies a sweet, rounded character (not a bad thing, mind you), rye is dry and spicy. Here’s a fine example of the heavily oaked American style, made by Kentucky’s Buffalo Trace distillery. Sweet and smooth at first, with vanilla, brown sugar and a toasty, nutty essence, it takes a fast and welcome turn into Spiceland. A fixture in fashionable bars that also specialize in trendy bourbons, it pops up on the retail shelves in various provinces from time to time, only to be raided by those in the know. The just-released Ontario allocation for this year is selling quickly. Currently available only in Ontario and Alberta, to my knowledge.