The magic of Brunello rests in how it can display layers of evolved flavours – tobacco, game and other non-primary fruit characters – at such a relatively young age. This wonder from Palazzo di Loia Cosimo is a marriage of youth and maturity. Full-bodied and still succulent at almost eight years of age, it shows chewy crushed cherry and plum fruit laced with meat jus, tobacco, herbs and a whisper of funky horse stable. Superb. $55.75 in Quebec.