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There's all the bling of rich New World cabernet in this red but plenty of finesse, too. It's full-bodied and intense, with sweet cassis, vanilla and dark chocolate. Then it turns enticingly savoury, exhibiting nuances of black-olive tapenade and mint, neatly chiselled around the edges with fresh acidity. A fine steak wine; $35.49 in Newfoundland. (Not to be confused with the still-excellent and more widely available Katnook Founder's Block at about $20.)

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