Encruzado, one of Portugal’s many indigenous grapes, deserves much wider recognition. Like the country itself, it was long isolated from the global trends that made such varieties as chardonnay and pinot grigio famous. Mainly grown in the Dao region of north-central Portugal, it’s regarded as one of Portugal’s best whites, often used as part of a blend. Structure is its forte, and that’s saying almost everything. Medium-bodied, with a bracing, bitter edge, this example, a 100-per-cent encruzado from quality boutique producer Quinta das Marias, offers up subtle pear-like fruit pulled in tight by astringency and a chewy mouthfeel. Exuberant yet disciplined.