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The challenges of a short growing season are in evidence in this 2011 from the Okanagan. It's got crisp acidity, light body and a mere 11.5-per-cent alcohol. But Gray Monk, an excellent producer, coaxed out good varietal character. Sour cherry, cranberry and notes of sandalwood and rose petal come through. Chill it slightly for best results and introduce it to poached or grilled salmon; $16.99 in B.C., distributed by Charton-Hobbs in Alberta, $20.99 in Manitoba.

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