Made in the labour-intensive Champagne style but lacking the hoity-toity geographical designation of that famed region of northern France, crémants are quality bubblies from various other parts of the country. This one's from the Loire, a blend of chenin blanc, chardonnay and cabernet franc. Mouth-watering, with a satisfying teeter-totter of sweet-crisp balance, it whispers with stony chalk as well as flowers and pear.