To a connoisseur, there would be no doubt about the main component in this smart, four-variety blend. It’s syrah, at 48 per cent, revealed conspicuously by the uncanny northern Rhône-style notes of white pepper, plum and – ever so subtly and pleasantly – cured meat. As for the rest of the medley: cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. It’s got impressive complexity and poise for the money as well as firm structure owing to juicy acidity and a dusting of fine-grained tannins. Good for grilled poultry or grilled sausages.