Fetzer chose “grigio” for this light white but the label could just as easily have read “gris,” the alternative name for the same grape. Where grigio implies the lean, Italian style, gris tends to be reserved for rounder, weightier interpretations, though admittedly the line is blurry. Round for a grigio, this is smooth in a way designed to appeal to Fetzer’s core American value-seeking drinker. Well done. The mid-palate weight is more substantial and satisfying than in most comparably priced Italian grigios, delivering pear-lemon fruit and culminating in a crisp finish. Nice on its own or with light fish and salads. Discounted by $2 to $9.95 in Ontario till June 22, $13.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $15.99 in Newfoundland, $16 in Prince Edward Island.