Love this red for the fresh berry fruit. Admire it for the savoury herbal, pipe-tobacco and cedar notes. Respect it for its rugged, dusty, unwimpy texture. This is brilliant tempranillo from the value-oriented Toro region (where tempranillo is sometimes called tinto de toro). Ripe, at 15-per-cent alcohol, it remains elegant through the long, dry finish. Perfect for roast leg of lamb but it would flatter a range of roasted or grilled red meats. Impressive bang for the buck; $19.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $16.98 in Manitoba, $24.01 in Newfoundland.