With words like “cutthroat” and “full-flavoured,” Tree Brewing of Kelowna, B.C., manages to sharply distinguish this fine brew from the generally tame ales of Canada’s not-so-distant past. It doesn’t bite that hard, though, at least not as mightily as the ominous cutthroat trout – with its distinctive red marking on the lower jaw – on the label. Clear mid-amber-gold in colour and medium-bodied, this ale comes across with plenty of malty sweetness and apricot-like fruitiness to support and balance the considerable citrus-pine hop character. I like how the bready-cereal characters shine through, too. I wonder if it might pair well with grilled cutthroat trout. Time to go fly fishing in British Columbia.