Serpico is the flagship of the fine Aussie winery Mitolo. It’s made in an unconventional manner for Australian reds, following the Amarone technique of Italy, in which grapes are left to dry on mats for weeks after harvest before they’re crushed and fermented. The concentrated berries yield more intense, complex flavours, and the results in this mature gem represent something distinctive for Australia. It’s luscious, yes, with a hint of raisin answered by bright acidity. The tannins are substantial but supple, framing nuances of sweet berries, leather, shoe polish and dried aromatic leaves. Think of blackberry jam served in a Prada loafer with a dusting of tea leaves and tobacco. The wine could pass for a men’s cologne if it weren’t so drinkable. Serve it with roast beef or lamb or cellar it for up to 20 years; $57.99 in Nova Scotia.