This is vodka with flavour but not, praise be, flavoured vodka. Long Table, a craft operation founded by entrepreneurs Charles and Rita Tremewen, bills itself as Vancouver’s first modern distillery (though I suspect a few illicit garage grappa and rakia makers from Europe would whisper in disagreement). Good spirit this is, too, deliciously but subtly infused with lemongrass and buffed to a smooth sheen over a bed of limestone from Texada Island in the Strait of Georgia. There’s a rounded sweetness in the mid-palate balanced by spice on the outer edges. It’s vodka worth savouring simply with soda and a twist of citrus or all by itself out of the freezer – as in vodka “Strait”; longtabledistillery.com.