The label is cute, which caused me to fear the worst. I was pleasantly surprised. The cartoon sketch of a French pastry shop window with woman’s bicycle parked outside is a not-so-subtle message. The Pâtisserie wines (there’s a red, too) are made in a fruit-forward manner designed to evoke flavours of popular French pastries, in this case tarte tatin, with its apple-and-butter essence. It’s from the southern Languedoc region and made by Badet Clément, the large producer behind the good-value brand Les Jamelles. Light-medium-bodied, it hits the tongue with silky, sweet peach and citrus (more than apple, I’d say) and occupies that grey zone between dry and off-dry. Pleasant on its own. Various prices in Alta., $13.99 in Man., $16.99 in N.B.