Here’s an affordable way to get to know aglianico, the rising native red grape of southern Italy. This one hails from the Basilicata region – the arch of Italy’s boot, where few North American tourists dare tread. Full-bodied but light on its feet, it’s like chocolate-covered espresso beans and wine gums rolled in black pepper. Sweet and smooth at first, it finishes dry and firm. Try it with grilled lamb or well-done steak. $21.79 in N.S.