Ever the bridesmaid to pinot grigio, pinot blanc is most prominently associated with Alsace, where it’s often blended into the sparkling crémant d’Alsace. One could make the case that the variety lacks the potential opulence and complexity of gris, but in the right hands it can shine. Its winter hardiness gave it an early start in British Columbia’s wine industry, which has produced many excellent examples, including this one from standout producer Blue Mountain. Part of the juice was fermented in wood and aged in four-year-old French oak for six months and part of it in stainless – for a combination of softness with acid tension. Medium-full-bodied, it’s crisp with notes of pear, apricot, lemon and mineral. A beauty and versatile at the table (www.bluemountainwinery.com).