Northwestern Spain’s Rias Baixas district is a showcase for albarino, a noble grape with impressive depth of flavour for its lean frame. This, from a prominent producer, is light-medium-bodied and bone-dry. The flavours hint at lemon zest and underripe pear and peach (nice in a wine, if too bracing when it comes to actual fruit), finishing with juicybitter tension. It’s perfect for light seafood or as a lively aperitif. Various prices in Alberta.