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Poplar Grove Winery gave a suitably informal-sounding name to its more affordably priced spinoff label, Monster Vineyards. I suspect that each time late October rolls around they reap an unexpected benefit in the form of a sales spike. But this is no Halloween novelty brand; it's fine juice. A red Bordeaux-style blend, the Red Eyed Meritage is designed for more casual sipping than the excellent, higher-priced Poplar Grove reds, though it stays admirably on the dry and serious side. Full-bodied and juicy, it displays supple tannins and ample concentration, with notes of blackberry, dark chocolate and spice. A good choice for steak or burgers; monstervineyards.com.

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