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pick of the week

Be not afraid of the "bottle." It's a decanter, in fact, shaped like a skull, painted white but with black, tattoo-like markings, such as spider webs in the eye sockets. As with Canadian actor Dan Aykroyd's Crystal Head Vodka, the container honours the iconography of Latin America's Day of the Dead celebrations. (Unlike the vodka, this spirit is, at least, Mexican.) Kah has modelled this vessel after a calavera, the name for a skull made of sugar and sold as a sort of Halloween treat. Give me this treat of a tequila over a spooky confection. It's marvellous, succulent and round, with great mid-palate weight. Whereas many of its kin veer strongly toward the herbal-vegetal side of the spectrum (not necessarily a bad thing when it comes to tequila), this one is strongly nutty, pineapple-like and spicy. I'd skip the margaritas and sip it neat. In fact, I may just do that on Halloween. Slated for release later this month in Ontario; $95 in B.C., $95 in Manitoba.

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