Pricey for a chardonnay that's not labelled "Grand Cru Burgundy," certainly. But it could proudly sit in the company of such elegance. From the Russian River Valley, home to many of California's best full-bodied whites, it's rich and smooth, with nuances of buttered popcorn, charred pineapple and vanilla, finishing with soft but fresh acidity. Pass the lobster with drawn butter, please.