Zippier than is the norm for Australian chardonnay, and certainly for once oak-obsessed Wolf Blass, the Gold Label chardonnay hails from the Adelaide Hills, whose cool-for-South-Australia climate breeds crisp backbone. It's classically rich, though, with notes of tropical fruit, peach and a leesy, toasted-nut character suggesting deftly handled aging in oak barrels. Put another lobster on the barbie; $25 suggested retail in Alberta, $25.50 in Quebec.