This whisky gets high marks for courage, and for confidence. It's from Islay, the Scottish island synonymous with heavily peated, deeply smoky drams redolent of a sooty chimney, such as Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. But, hang on, Bruichladdich has removed Islay's kilt, eschewing the island's signature barley-drying process over peat-fuelled fire. Veteran distiller Jim McEwan, the Rob Roy of Scottish whisky, also refrains from disclosing the barrel-oak mix he's selected for the final assemblage. Is it ex-bourbon casks? Sherry? Port? Virgin oak? The recipe's ours to guess, hence the name Black Art.
What I'm still guessing at is whether I love it or merely like it. Or, to put it in Islay terms, if there's no smoke, is there fire? It puts me in mind of barley and spices in heavy cream, as in a cinnamon-dusted porridge. Then there's the caramel – lots of caramel, betraying its 23 years in that mystery amalgam of various woods.
Certainly, at the price, this could be one for your blind-tasting with well-heeled Scotch aficionados. First one to guess, and to love it, gets the rest of the bottle? Available for $349.99 in B.C., various prices in Alberta, $350.75 in Quebec, $357.99 in New Brunswick.