Ardbeg, the Islay distillery known for the smokiest of whiskies, celebrates its bicentennial this year. One could be forgiven for thinking of it as a teenager, though. Like a few other single-malt producers in Scotland, it fell off the radar for a while, sadly mothballed by previous owners. Production ceased in 1981, and toward the end of that decade it traded hands again only to close for a second time, in 1991. Six years later, peat-seeking whisky lovers had cause to rejoice as Glenmorangie took control and exhumed it from the ashes.
Perpetuum, a limited-edition single malt, was crafted in honour of the birthday (thankfully, they didn't price it at a full $200 to numerically underscore the milestone). Much of the stock has been reserved for distillery-club members known as the Ardbeg Committee, but a trickle will make its way to LCBO stores in Ontario on June 13, in time for Father's Day.
Matured in a combination of former bourbon and sherry casks, it bears a nose slightly less smoky than the distillery's $100 flagship 10-year-old (though, this being Ardbeg, it's not exactly tame on that score). On the palate, it's creamier, too, with luscious notes of pear, honey, nutty oak and a character that put me in mind of dark chocolate wrapped in smoky bacon drizzled with a dollop of vanilla. As it moves toward the long finish, Perpetuum's peaty campfire and creosote builds force, with peppery spice and a salty tang giving it further lift. I love the balance and rounded richness. Very, very nice, even for a whisky that's been 200 years in the making.