"This is an aggressive ale," reads the back label. "You probably won't like it." Such facetious proclamations are the marketing hallmark of its San Diego County producer, Stone Brewing, which likes to thumb its nose at big brands that want to convince you that "their tasteless fizzy yellow beer will give you more sex appeal." I'd say they've got a right to be arrogant, because this is anything but tasteless or yellow. Dark amber-coppery in colour and seductively cloudy, it packs a punch. Rich and malty in the middle, it comes across with ripe peach, tropical fruit and hints of caramel and fig backed by a firm spine of West Coast-style hopped-up bitterness and grapefruit- and pine-like zest. Wonderfully balanced, it hides its 7.2-per-cent alcohol well; $8.29 in B.C., various prices in Alberta.