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Chestnut-brown and moderately frothy, Tree Brewing's seasonal Hop Head Black fuses the highly bitter and fashionable West Coast IPA style with strongly roasted malts. Full-bodied, at a warm 8-per-cent alcohol, it tastes like two beers rather than one, which could be a positive or negative thing depending on your view. There's a strong essence of burnt sugar, sweet maltiness, coffee and caramel on the one hand and bitter pine and citrus-peel flavours on the other. It's very nice but, I think, could have been even nicer if it tasted like one beer rather than two. Available in Ontario.

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