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pick of the week

Celebrating 20 years, Tree Brewing of Kelowna, B.C., has become one of the most reliable microbreweries in the land. Whatever the style, Tree can deliver compelling balance as well as big, uncompromising flavour. This limited-release Black Lager ("No. 4" is the designation on the current batch) is world class, with a richness most black lagers are too timid to match. Very black in colour, it comes unfiltered and bottled at a lager-moderate 5-per-cent alcohol. The tan head lingers impressively, as that of a Guinness stout. Medium-full-bodied, it's dry, rich and creamy, with dark, roasted characters of espresso and bitter chocolate. Then, like a good lager should, it pulls back from the thick richness of a porter or stout. It's a dark beer a person could drink all day. Or, at least, this person.

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