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Best to look for your smooth kicks elsewhere. This is one tannic little beast, with sticky astringency from the get-go. That quality helps provide welcome backbone to the very ripe fruit profile in this 15-per-cent-alcohol tempranillo (a.k.a. tinta de toro) red from the northwest Toro region. Fatty meats are a must. Available in Ontario at the above price, $17.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.

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