Riservas typically denote richer wines based on the most concentrated vineyard fruit, aged for an extended period in oak barrels to encourage longevity in the cellar. There is evidence of that here, but not conspicuously so. It’s medium-bodied, almost delicate in weight, very dry, with juicy plum and dark-cherry fruit. I like the overtones: leather, licorice and old church wood among them if you’ve got my imagination. Well-tailored and graceful. Drink it now or over the next four years.