Well, wines don't get much more idiosyncratic than this. It's a moscato from a California label devoted entirely to Italian varieties, including barbera, nebbiolo and vermentino. It was co-founded by winemaker Jim Moore, a veteran of the Robert Mondavi Winery in its heyday. This is no regular moscato, though. Made from warm-weather Lodi fruit, it's insanely fragrant, with punchy notes of lavender, bergamot and lemon verbena. Frankly, it smells like a well-perfumed feminine bathroom. Dry and fresh, it's mouthwatering and tastes the way it smells. Love it or hate it