Gorgeous chardonnay, better than the vast majority selling for a comparable price. Rich and full, it stays tight and crisp through the long, tension-filled finish, with ripe flavours of pineapple and stone fruit answered by brisk acidity and a smoky-flinty quality thanks, I’m guessing, to five months of contact with spent yeast (a.k.a. lees) in new French oak barrels.

The vineyard team led by Calgary-born Barry Green and Cawston, B.C. native Gabriel Reis conducted three separate “micro” harvests over a two-week period to capture different ripeness levels in the resulting blend. It would excel with rich fish dishes and roast poultry.

Taxes and bottle deposit bring the price to $30, still a bargain for great Burgundy-class chardonnay. Available through www.paintedrock.ca.