Non-vintage Champagnes, such as this one, are supposed to taste the same year after year. They’re blended from wines of several harvests to overcome vintage variability. But Piper has clearly improved with the current bottling. “Bodyguard” is a reference to the rubberized holiday-issue red exterior with a texture of crocodile skin. The wine is like lemon pie, with perfectly balanced acidity and energetic mousse. Various prices across Canada.