The Porcupine is a monster for value, as many Canadians have discovered. It’s made by a great South African estate with the tongue-twisting name of Boekenhoutskloof. On the label is an artist’s sketch of the crested porcupine, the local inhabitant presumably forced to live life without ever getting a hug. The 2011 syrah is terrific, packed with dark fruit, black pepper, bacon drippings and spice – like a northern-Rhône syrah with more fat on its bones. Try it with stewed red meat. $17.99 in B.C., $13.99 in Alta., $17.30 in Que.