If there’s ever been a reason to like California merlot – and, despite Sideways, I’d insist there is good reason – this wine qualifies. It’s smooth, yes, but not to the point of boring you into a coma. There’s depth here, with make-you-meditate nuances of cedar, tobacco, spice and milk chocolate. And the price, while not cheap, is pretty right. ($22.99 for 2007 in B.C., $16.99 suggested retail price in Alberta, $19.99 in Manitoba.)