Sequana Winemaker James MacPhail plays bagpipes and classical piano, as if fickle pinot weren't enough to keep him busy. I like to think of his small-batch wines as tender Chopin nocturnes versus the piercing wail of a Highland regiment at full tilt (though I do enjoy Amazing Grace on a well-tuned goat sack). Made with wild yeasts for added complexity, this offering from a cool ridge in California's Russian River Valley offers plum-jam, wild-berry and coffee flavours framed by spice and astringent, slightly dusty tannins. It should improve with up to 10 years in a cool cellar.