Why does this sublime bourbon always seem to be released in Canada nowhere near my birthday? The love grows fonder each year, yet supplies vanish by the time I'm presented with the generous question: "What would you like as a gift?" The world has William Larue Weller to thank for pioneering a style known as wheated bourbon. Adding substantial quantities of smooth, delicate-tasting wheat to the bourbon mash bill, which by U.S. law must contain at least 51-per-cent corn, vaults America's signature spirit out of Hazzard County onto main street – in a good way. The hooch is worthy of a tuxedo rather than overalls. Big, smooth and rich, it's loaded with dried apricot, toffee, toasted corn and axle grease. A pinch of cayenne adds the exclamation mark. Brilliant.