Ontario should plant more gamay, the red grape of Beaujolais, because wineries such as Malivoire have shown it can perform splendidly in the region. But I speak more as a fan of food-friendly, crisp-bright wines than as an accountant. Gamay is adored by many a sommelier but ignored with a vengeance by modern consumers seeking mouth-filling syrupy smoothness. Let me step down from the soapbox and simply applaud this beauty for its good concentration, adorable strawberry fruit and spicy overtones. An ideal red for fish. Various prices in Alta., $22.05 in Que., $24.99 in N.B., $21.70 in Nfld.