The name Beringer brings to mind lavishly oaked, broad-shouldered cabernets, merlots and chardonnays. Pinot? Not really. But here’s a very nice effort. It’s substantial for a pinot, to be sure, pushing 14.3-per-cent alcohol and showing jammy, mouth-filling berry fruit. Then it evens out with bright acidity and finds structure in firm tannins. I wish it were a little more affordable. $34.99 in N.B.