Shopping for sunscreen isn’t like it used to be.
It’s no longer about simple protection from the sun. Now, products have to be hypo-allergenic, water resistant and fast-absorbing, infused with antioxidants, with high photostability and specially engineered with patented ultraviolet absorbers to guard against a broad spectrum of harmful rays.
Meanwhile, environmental advocates are increasingly warning that a significant number of sunscreens also contain a host of risky ingredients that could potentially cause cancer or other serious health effects.
Is it any wonder consumers are feeling confused?
“It’s overwhelming,” said Suzanne Bertani, a mother of four who lives in Port Moody, B.C. “Sunscreen has been the toughest subject to understand for me.”
If Ms. Bertani, who writes an environmentally focused blog for other moms called mommyfootprint.com, feels confused about it, other consumers must feel downright mystified when trying to choose the best product.
Part of the uncertainty stems from the growing availability of products that boast protection from both ultraviolet B and ultraviolet A rays. Traditionally, sunscreens have offered protection against UVB rays, which cause the skin to burn. The level of UVB protection in a particular sunscreen is marked by its sun protection factor, or SPF.
But there is mounting concern over the damaging effects of UVA rays, which scientists say penetrate deeper into the skin and can cause premature aging, as well as increase the risk of skin cancer.
Sunscreen makers have responded by blanketing the market with products offering “broad spectrum” protection from both sets of harmful rays. “We’re seeing more and more products with UVA and UVB protection,” said François Roberge, director of scientific and regulatory affairs at L’Oreal Canada.
However, unlike with UVB rays and SPF, there is no measure to indicate how much protection is offered from UVA rays.
A handful of companies have also created new ingredients to protect against UVA and UVB while maintaining photostability, meaning an ingredient doesn’t degrade when exposed to sunlight.They go by patented, technical names that companies have begun promoting on their labels, adding a new level of complexity. L’Oreal Canada, for instance, uses “mexoryl” technology on its Ombrelle, La-Roche-Posay and Vichy sunscreen brands. Neutrogena has developed “helioplex” technology to protect the skin.
Various claims on sunscreen bottles such as “water resistant” and “fast absorbing” aren’t regulated by Health Canada, meaning consumers have no assurance the product lives up to the label.
Even SPF numbers, which have been around for decades, are difficult to decipher. Many people mistakenly believe the SPF measures how long a person can stay out in the sun without getting burned. Even Health Canada states on its website that SPF 15 sunscreen allows a person to spend 15 times longer in the sun than a person without sunscreen.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration says SPF actually measures how much solar energy is needed to produce a sunburn on protected skin relative to the amount of UV rays needed to burn unprotected skin. It’s a complicated science that is affected by the time of day a person is in the sun, their skin type and the length of sun exposure.
However, higher numbers do offer better protection. To a point.
Health experts recommend using a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15. SPF 30 protects against about 97 per cent of UVB rays, while SPF 50 is slightly higher. Although many companies sell sunscreens with SPFs of 65 or even 80 and 100, experts say the added protection is minimal.
In addition, the much-publicized Environmental Working Group report on potentially harmful substances common in sunscreens, from oxybenzone to retinyl palmitate to nanoparticles, has sparked widespread concern the products could actually cause cancer or other serious health problems. For instance, the report said retinyl palmitate, a form of vitamin A, accelerated tumour growth when applied to hairless mice.
One of Canada’s leading dermatology experts said the market for sunscreen is becoming unnecessarily complex, a trend he said may have more to do with sales than health.
“I think part of it is out of concern, saying we’d like to see even better coverage,” said Barry Lycka, president of the Canadian Skin Cancer Foundation. “But I think also part of it is a marketing ploy of some of the pharmaceutical companies. They’d love to get their sunscreen being sold more so they like to advocate the newer, the better, the best.”
Dr. Lycka, who practices dermatology in Edmonton, also said while some health concerns may be valid, research linking retinyl palmitate to tumours in mice is weakened by the fact those mice are highly prone to developing skin cancer, and the fact that similar findings have not been replicated in humans.
While some fear sunscreen chemicals will cause harm, Dr. Lycka said they shouldn’t forget about another proven carcinogen: the sun.
“People lose their noses, they lose their ears,” he said. “Those are the options you’re facing if you don’t use these products.”
