Turning left out of the lodge, we opted to first visit Wikwemikong First Nation. Thirteen kilometres later, we arrived in the hub of the community, where we toured the the Holy Cross Mission Ruins, which, with austere stone walls, reflect the heavy-handedness of Christian missionaries. On a more positive note, the grounds are used as an outdoor theatre in summer by the De-ba-jeh-mu-jig Theatre Co.
We rode about 10 kilometres farther along Rabbit Island Road to a picnic area overlooking the water. After heading back to Manitowaning after a snack, we had a choice to make. Cycle 30 kilometres north to Little Current, with its swing bridge that connects to the northern mainland? Or turn west in Shegufandah on Town Line Road? We chose the latter, and wound our way down the east side of Lake Manitou until we eventually came back into Manitowaning. After cycling these far-from-flat roads, we felt deserving of the meal waiting at the lodge.
When noon rolls around, try to be somewhere near Farquar's Dairy Ice Cream, 20 kilometres west of Manitowaning at the south end of Lake Manitou. It's an island dairy that services many local stores and cafés.
The town of Mindemoya, another 20 minutes west, is a great destination, as you have a choice of lunch spots. The Old School House in Providence Bay on the south shore of the island serves up fine meals, and the beach still entices even in autumn. At Tekumman's Garden Gate Restaurant, meanwhile, staff walk out to the vegetable garden to prepare your meal.
All this, and we hadn't even begun to explore the west side of Manitoulin, where Bridal Veil Falls plunges 10 metres in a curtain of water and a quaint, red-roofed lighthouse watches over the Mississagi Strait.
Wherever you pedal, make sure to thank the Creator for sharing it all.
Pack your bags
GETTING THERE
Ontario Ferries: http://www.ontarioferries.com; 1-800-265-3163. From Sept. 4 to Oct. 16, the MS Chi-Cheemaun departs Tobermory at 8:50 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. daily (and at 6:10 p.m. on Fridays), and leaves South Baymouth at 11:10 a.m. and 3:50 p.m. daily (and at 8:15 p.m. on Fridays). The same-day walk-on return fare is $22.45 for adults.
GETTING AROUND
A reliable map is essential when biking around Manitoulin. Buy one on the ferry and in the ferry offices at Tobermory and South Baymouth.
WHERE TO STAY
Manitowaning Lodge: http://www.manitoulin-island.com/manitowaninglodge; 705-859-3136. Off-season rates (effective now) are $115 a person for a room and $145 a person for a cabin, including breakfast and dinner.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Garden's Gate Restaurant: Tehkummah; 705-859-2088.
School House Restaurant: Providence Bay; 705-377-4055.
THINGS TO DO
Southbay Gallery:
http://www.bbcanada.com/manitoulin;
1-877-656 8324.
De-ba-jeh-mu-jig Theatre and Holy Cross Mission: 705-859-2317.
Wikwemikong Unceded Indian Reserve: wikwemikongheritage.com; 705-859-2385.
MORE INFORMATION
Accommodation, restaurant and activity information can be found at http://www.manitoulin-island.com.
