According to native legend, Manitoulin Island is the home of Gitchi Manitou, the world's Creator who, presumably, likes to ride a bike.
The world's largest freshwater island in northern Ontario is one of the best places in the province to pedal -- especially in the fall, when you'll have the stunning fall colours nearly to yourself.
From Southern Ontario, Manitoulin Island is best accessed by taking the Chi-Cheemaun ferry from the town of Tobermory on Ontario's Bruce Peninsula. It runs only twice a day after Labour Day, with an extra sailing on Fridays, but these less-frequent fall crossings are a boon for cyclists. Fewer sailings mean fewer motorists.
Remember to bring extra-large panniers for the treasures you'll find in small shops and roadside stands along the way. People still make, bake and grow things by hand on Manitoulin.
The Chi-Cheemaun ferry is licensed and there's a full cafeteria, but don't forget that you still have to cycle on the other side. When you arrive in South Bay after the two-hour cruise, visit the Southbay Gallery, located within walking distance from the ferry terminal. It has a fabulous and reasonably priced collection of porcupine-quill boxes, moose-hide moccasins and other items crafted by local artisans. Gallery co-owner Jose Garcia is a talented potter who offers workshops by appointment.
My partner and I picked up an original James Jacko painting from the period in his early career when the Wikwemikong First Nation member decorated anything he could find (our piece is on a small rectangle of plywood). A hand-woven shawl by Ingrid Burke was folded into my pannier along with the painting, with an antique cornflower serving dish tucked in behind.
With heavier panniers, we rode 30 kilometres north on the rolling Highway 6. It's best to use a hybrid bike, as you won't want to stay on main roads for long and side roads aren't paved. When we arrived at the turnoff to the town of Manitowaning, we headed east, and then quickly south, to the unassuming entrance for Manitowaning Lodge, a 1940s beauty on the north-facing shores of Manitoulin.
Choose a cabin over a room here. A day in the saddle, especially on dusty back roads, calls for some serious showering. You'll get a cozy bathrobe in the cabin -- a welcome contrast to your sticky cycling shorts and grimy jersey. Once you are clean and cocooned, resist the temptation to fall asleep. Miss dinner, and you miss out.
Soups are made from fresh island produce. Squash, tomato, turnip, pumpkin -- it doesn't matter -- are all beautifully blended with herbs and spices. Then comes warm homemade bread, fresh salads and the main course.
Cyclists seem to have a permanent pasta deficit, no matter how much we consume. But when it is al dente, tossed with island vegetables, parmesan and Romano cheese, olive oil, and the secret ingredients of chefs Robert Kirk and Oliver Kjeldsen, the only thing you need is a glass of B.C.'s Mission Hill merlot. And do have dessert -- they, too, are made fresh daily.
Such a meal calls for serious cycling the next day, but not before you're fed again. We didn't choose the eggs, bacon, ham or home fries, but instead the fortifying muesli, fruit and pancakes with local maple syrup.
Oh, that first climb after the pancakes! While the island doesn't have killer hills, it has rollers and moderate climbs. Add a soft dirt surface, and we didn't have much energy left for digestion.
The more remote the back road, the thicker the canopy of trees. Depending on September temperatures, Manitoulin's fall colours tend to peak in early October. And when pedalling through the mixed topography of farmers' fields, forest and limestone outcroppings, the autumnal experience can be overwhelming.
Turning left out of the lodge, we opted to first visit Wikwemikong First Nation. Thirteen kilometres later, we arrived in the hub of the community, where we toured the the Holy Cross Mission Ruins, which, with austere stone walls, reflect the heavy-handedness of Christian missionaries. On a more positive note, the grounds are used as an outdoor theatre in summer by the De-ba-jeh-mu-jig Theatre Co.
We rode about 10 kilometres farther along Rabbit Island Road to a picnic area overlooking the water. After heading back to Manitowaning after a snack, we had a choice to make. Cycle 30 kilometres north to Little Current, with its swing bridge that connects to the northern mainland? Or turn west in Shegufandah on Town Line Road? We chose the latter, and wound our way down the east side of Lake Manitou until we eventually came back into Manitowaning. After cycling these far-from-flat roads, we felt deserving of the meal waiting at the lodge.
When noon rolls around, try to be somewhere near Farquar's Dairy Ice Cream, 20 kilometres west of Manitowaning at the south end of Lake Manitou. It's an island dairy that services many local stores and cafés.
The town of Mindemoya, another 20 minutes west, is a great destination, as you have a choice of lunch spots. The Old School House in Providence Bay on the south shore of the island serves up fine meals, and the beach still entices even in autumn. At Tekumman's Garden Gate Restaurant, meanwhile, staff walk out to the vegetable garden to prepare your meal.
All this, and we hadn't even begun to explore the west side of Manitoulin, where Bridal Veil Falls plunges 10 metres in a curtain of water and a quaint, red-roofed lighthouse watches over the Mississagi Strait.
Wherever you pedal, make sure to thank the Creator for sharing it all.
Pack your bags
GETTING THERE
Ontario Ferries: http://www.ontarioferries.com; 1-800-265-3163. From Sept. 4 to Oct. 16, the MS Chi-Cheemaun departs Tobermory at 8:50 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. daily (and at 6:10 p.m. on Fridays), and leaves South Baymouth at 11:10 a.m. and 3:50 p.m. daily (and at 8:15 p.m. on Fridays). The same-day walk-on return fare is $22.45 for adults.
GETTING AROUND
A reliable map is essential when biking around Manitoulin. Buy one on the ferry and in the ferry offices at Tobermory and South Baymouth.
WHERE TO STAY
Manitowaning Lodge: http://www.manitoulin-island.com/manitowaninglodge; 705-859-3136. Off-season rates (effective now) are $115 a person for a room and $145 a person for a cabin, including breakfast and dinner.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Garden's Gate Restaurant: Tehkummah; 705-859-2088.
School House Restaurant: Providence Bay; 705-377-4055.
THINGS TO DO
Southbay Gallery:
http://www.bbcanada.com/manitoulin;
1-877-656 8324.
De-ba-jeh-mu-jig Theatre and Holy Cross Mission: 705-859-2317.
Wikwemikong Unceded Indian Reserve: wikwemikongheritage.com; 705-859-2385.
MORE INFORMATION
Accommodation, restaurant and activity information can be found at http://www.manitoulin-island.com.
