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The city hiker

Like a Hummer in the city, these rugged boots may be overkill for urban types. Layton refers to this footwear trend “casually masculine,” but she says it takes confidence to pull off the “boot tuck.” Slim pants all but necessitate being worn inside a boot which, take note, need not be laced to the top. But even a wider jean will still show the lug soles and heavy-duty leather. Want a dressier option? Go with the Philip Sparks equestrian hybrid for Town Shoes.

Leather toppers

If Z Zegna's fall message is Neo Noir, then the long inky leather coats and gunmetal motorcycle jackets are equal parts Cary Grant and Colin Farrell. Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan, the brands behind Canadian leather label Mackage, took a similarly refined-rebel approach. Then there's Neil Barrett's simulacrum of cable-knit stamped into leather; not exactly outerwear-appropriate but the most ingenious treatment of the season.

Luxe knits

Crewnecks, mock necks and turtlenecks provide a streamlined option under sport jackets, while chunky knits are an alternative to blazers. Balance is key; layer finer gauge sweaters but pair bulkier pieces with slim bottoms and trim tops. Scooped or V-shaped necklines à la Prada or Jil Sander have a seductively effortless appeal.

Colour me cabernet

Plums, berries, burgundies and merlots: At Etro, rich rouges are the new black, from coats to trousers and turtlenecks. At Dolce & Gabbana, satin dress shoes, bowties and even a moiré silk tuxedo were stained cranberry. Hats off to anyone who attempts the head-to-toe plum uniform conceived by Alber Elbaz for Lanvin; far more realistic is to mix the hue with dark grey, black or even camel, Layton advises.

Double breasted 2.0

No, a slim double-breasted suit is not an oxymoron. Z Zegna, the contemporary offshoot of the classic men's fashion house, can be credited for perfecting a jacket that features two buttons instead of the usual six. “It's new and fresh, especially for [someone] who has never worn a cropped body,” says Lanita Layton, vice-president and general merchandising manager of men's wear at Holt Renfrew. “The armhole is higher and the fit is more suppressed. Wear it buttoned up with slim leg pant with two-inch cuff,” she recommends.

Paramilitary

The fabrics may not actually be bulletproof, but the look is. High-fashion foot soldiers marched the runways for Z Zegna, Alexander McQueen, Tim Hamilton and Rick Owens, while Miuccia Prada outfitted her guys in spiked brogues. Instead of army fatigues, think stealth black. The point is to convey a protective vibe in an everyday context, so longer proportions, stronger shoulders: “This collection was designed during the recession – that's why it's about self-confidence and protection,” Z Zegna's Satori says.

Slim pant

Slim is not the same as skinny. A pant that fits the leg is one of the easiest ways to update the wardrobe, according to Alessandro Sartori, creative director for Z Zegna, who made a quick stop in Toronto last month from Milan. “A classic blazer and fitted pant will make a long and lean silhouette that is really sharp,” he says. Add a wider black belt with minimal buckle detail to help define the waist. For an alternative to black or grey trousers, try a heavier weight chino or cord.

Checks please

Etro three-piece suit: check. 3.1 Phillip Lim car coat: check. Herringbone at Bottega Veneta: check. Paul Smith plaid slacks: check. “A lot of men have been investing in a pinstripe suit; what's new and fresh now is the windowpane or tattersall with just a little shot of colour,” Layton says. Some checks appear to have been injected with steroids, but don't let the pattern wear you. The bigger the check, the more neutral the rest should be.

Vests

Never ones for understatement, Dean and Dan Caten, the Canadian twosome behind Dsquared created the male version of a twin set by showing a vest over a waistcoat, complete with dressy jean shirt and bowtie. It's an advanced level sartorial move, to be sure, but proof of how much they adore what's often referred to as “the third piece.” Follow their lead and try a jean vest under a top coat or a wool version over a hooded sweatshirt. They go with everything, except bare chests.