'You're getting coast fever," said my neighbour, peeking out from her luxuriant garden. She was commenting on my plan to hike in the woods rather than write at my computer. Little did she know, I was also contemplating paddling my kayak on this bright, warm day.
Later that afternoon, I gasped in delight as an eagle swooped in front of our kayaks to raise a large salmon out of the ocean. The bird landed on a boulder about 40 metres away to lunch on its prey; my husband and I sat silently, savouring the sight. A short while later, I eyeballed a heron along the shore and then watched two seals cavort nearby. If this was coast fever, I was a happy victim.
The Sunshine Coast is a bucolic, green belt along B.C.'s west coast that is separated from the rest of the world by the towering Coast Mountains to the east and the Pacific Ocean on the west. Ferry rides at each end -- the lower section of the Sunshine Coast stretches 80 kilometres from Gibsons to Earl's Cove -- give it a decidedly island feel. It's only a 40-minute float, on island-studded waters that resemble a Toni Onley painting, from Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver to Langdale on the Sunshine Coast. That makes it close to Vancouver's cosmopolitan pleasures but light years away from the traffic and bustle of the city.
From the ferry terminal, Highway 101 meanders through stands of Douglas fir, hemlock and cedar, past long sweeps of beaches and a smattering of small towns. On the trip up the coast, most of the best postcard scenes are hidden from sight: fabulous fiords with sculpted shorelines of granite, off-shore verdant islands and lovely, mossy trails that boast both sky-reaching, second growth forest and lustrous, red-barked arbutus trees.
Neighbourhoods are a mix of pretty summer cottages and posh homes tucked into the woods or overlooking the ocean, and are populated by loggers, fishers, craftspeople, writers and artists as well as wealthy Vancouverites seeking the simpler life. In summer, the population of about 27,000 swells as cottagers and visitors arrive to enjoy the climate.
The name is no tourist marketing gimmick. The area boasts 2,400 hours of sunshine annually. With all this going for it, it's a beguiling surprise that the Sunshine Coast is not spruced up for tourists.
Just off the ferry, Gibsons Landing, arguably one of Canada's prettiest small towns with charming shops and galleries and a boat-adorned harbour backed by mountains, has a folksy appeal. It's familiar to Canadians as the setting for the long-running Beachcombers television series -- Molly's Reach is still a popular restaurant overlooking the ocean.
At Roberts Creek, you cut down from the highway to admire gardens and waterfront parks, and visit funky restaurants and craft galleries. The food is great and local artwork can be seen at the Gumboot Garden Cafe. Davis Bay offers a long stretch of waterfront that can be walked; there is great java at Pier 17, a classy gallery is upstairs and fish and chips can be enjoyed along with the sunset.
The village of Sechelt is set on an intriguing land formation as the Sechelt Peninsula joins the mainland at a narrow neck of land, sheltering an inland sea that was gouged out of the landscape by a massive ice formation some 10,000 years ago. This is home to the Sechelt Nation, a thriving community that is part of the Coast Salish Nation.
Entering Sechelt, stop at the House of Hewhiwus, which includes a Native gift shop, museum and theatre. Also, walk along the waterfront (which is mostly hidden from the village) starting at Snickett Park with its intriguing rock formations carved by crashing waves.
Follow the shoreline east to take in the row of hand-carved totems that face the ocean. Sechelt has a number of good restaurants -- the Old Boot and the Sun Fish Cafe are on the main drag -- a charming community art gallery and don't miss the gardens at Rockwood Lodge. The Annual Festival of the Written Arts in August is held here in a heritage building.
Explore the tiny communities of Halfmoon Bay, Madeira Park, and Garden Bay, as well as Secret Cove and Pender Harbour. These island-dotted natural harbours of blues and greens cry out for a National Geographic photographer. Don't miss the general store at Halfmoon Bay. Any number of side roads lead to woodsy provincial parks, tranquil coves or a wink of a village. From Sechelt, it's another 54 kilometres to Earl's Cove and the ferry to Saltery Bay and the northern section of the Sunshine Coast.
