Many Canadians will be celebrating and giving thanks for the bounty of the harvest by sitting down to a feast this weekend with family and friends. And chef Lynn Crawford is hoping that when people get together, fresh local produce will be the star of the Thanksgiving show.
“I've always been an advocate for local food,” says Ms. Crawford, whose Food Network show Pitchin’ In gives her the chance to travel to far-flung locations to find the best fresh ingredients.
“That appreciation of having local products grown in the right manner, that is what it is all about and what a difference it is.”
While it's customary to prepare roast turkey with all the trimmings along with seasonal produce such as pumpkin, squash, corn and apples, Ms. Crawford suggests that home cooks consider giving traditions a twist.
“Take all those ingredients that you love and adore so much, but maybe not do the same thing that you've always done, but try something different,” she said in an interview from Toronto’s Ruby Watchco, the restaurant she opened in 2010 after returning to her hometown from New York, where she was executive chef at the Four Seasons Hotel.
There are many resources to help you design your menu, she says. “It's walking into a local farmers market and being inspired by the ingredients you see there and just thinking out of the box a little bit.”
The centrepiece for many celebrations is turkey, and Ms. Crawford suggests a heritage version. But also consider a different way of cooking it.
“What's really popular now is slow cooking or long braising of different items. Not a lot of people brine their turkey before they cook it,” she explains. “When you're brining a chicken or turkey or pork roast, the brine seasons and ensures that whatever you're cooking is tender and juicy. It makes such a difference.”
For the trimmings, expand on a simple bread stuffing. “If you had roasted honeycrisp apples in that stuffing with roasted butternut squash, thyme and caramelized onions, fantastic. That's wonderful, beautiful. With roasted pumpkin seeds.”
You could also try something completely different for the main course. “Duck is a gorgeous fall dish. Duck and squash and cranberries are fantastic,” the chef says.
“Make a big rustic hearty vegetable soup for Thanksgiving as a first course with cheddar biscuits.”
For her family gathering, she's always in charge of stuffing and mashed potatoes. “There's no magic to it – just milk and butter.”
“I love mashed potatoes, but I also love a cheesy cheddar sweet potato gratin. That would be yummy. Brussels sprouts with bacon, delicious. And then you have to have apple pie, pumpkin pie and sticky toffee pudding.”
Add a couple of bottles of great wine and you're all set, Ms. Crawford says.
Non-alcoholic beverages could include apple cider served warm with mulling spices, or pour sparkling water into pear cider or cranberry cocktail for a fun and festive drink.
For dessert, “I love a really great apple pie. Now putting a rich caramel sauce on there or a vanilla caramel sauce” will elevate it from traditional to extraordinary.
Ms. Crawford’s best overall advice? “Don't complicate things. Stick to dishes that you know have got lots of heart and soul and enjoy it, but don't stress about it. Make it fun. Thanksgiving is a celebration of the wonderful harvest, friends and family. Get everybody to participate. And if it's a potluck, isn't that fun too?”
She also shares some tips for perfect timing. “The turkey can be done in advance and then slightly warmed. The stuffing is off to the side. It can be made ahead and you can reheat. And the finishing of those vegetables or that salad that needs to be tossed – you can put all the ingredients in a bowl all cut up, don't dress it, have the dressing on the side, season it up. Ba-doom!
“Have the table set the night before. Have the wine chilled and all ready to go. Have some great music on or just listen to the laughter in the room.”
Find Lynn Crawford’s recipe for Pumpkin Sticky Toffee Pudding here.
The Canadian Press
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