The return of choice (and even a little hedonism)

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"It's all about good clean living," confided an astoundingly fresh-faced Tom Ford. "I don't drink. I don't smoke. I don't do drugs. I'm just totally into my work." Ford, who proved his talents as a filmmaker with last year's A Single Man, made a much-anticipated comeback to the business of dressing women this week by presenting an ultra-luxe collection to an intimate crowd of editors assembled in his Madison Avenue men's store. The exclusive show, which was shrouded in secrecy, featured a staggeringly beautiful array of looks that cannot be shown due to a three-month publication ban of any images. (How's that for control?) The clothes were modeled by some of the world's most iconic women, from Beyoncé, Julianne Moore, Rita Wilson, Daphne Guinness and Lauren Hutton to runway sensations like Daria Werbowy, Amber Valetta, Stella Tennant, Natalia Vodianova and Chanel Iman.

"What a complete fantasy this is!" marveled Marisa Berenson, who strutted a sapphire-blue sequined gown in the show. "Tom told us to feel like movie stars," explained New York artist Rachel Feinstein, clad in a blood-orange shredded chiffon shrug jacket teamed with a romantic peach dress. "And we did!"

The stellar combination of celebrities, couture quality creations and sensational styling was a testament to Ford's eye for haute fashion and innate sense of what makes women sexy. The publication ban was the designer's way of showing that he's operating outside the fashion system, which previews the coming season all too early. Ford's offerings ran the gamut from sharply tailored black and white pantsuits to finely fringed gowns and cocktail dresses. Later that night, another very different designer named Tom showed his 25th-anniversary collection under the big top at Lincoln Center, which has replaced the traditional Bryant Park site as a Fashion Week venue. Tommy Hilfiger, whose front-row guests included Jennifer Lopez and Lenny Kravitz, returned to his roots with full-out preppy chic. But this time, the attitude was geared to the young country club set, with polished hits of optimistic red, white, blue and buttercup yellow.

Perhaps the most compelling message of New York Fashion Week was that trends as we knew them are pretty much over: It's not as much about specific sartorial details any more as it is about attitude. Canada's Jeremy Laing presented an especially sophisticated architectural collection of innovative draped and flowing garments in a wide range of fabrications and textures. It was one of the strongest stories of the week.

There was a distinct international flavour at Diane von Furstenberg: Her new creative director, Yvan Mispelaere, is a Frenchman who has worked for such illustrious European houses as Gucci and Chloé. "We met in Paris, and walked around the city for inspiration," von Furstenberg told me backstage. "Then we went on a trip to Greece, and came up with the 'goddess' theme." Colourful graphic prints dominated the showy collection, which was chock full of relaxed jumpsuits, flowing gowns and easy-to-wear halter dresses. Shades of blue jived with khaki, tobacco and violet and a seventies vibe was in the air. Sarah Jessica Parker, decked out in a vintage YSL off-the-shoulder frock, admitted to being a big DVF fan. "She really is an inspiring role model," she said.

"I love the colours," Courtney Love gushed backstage at Marc Jacobs. Raspberry, plum and dark chocolate looked especially delicious as the hedonistic seventies surfaced again; a bevy of beauties sporting glistening big-brimmed straw hats and flowing dresses conjured up visions of old YSL glam. "These were things that made me fall in love with fashion when I was growing up," the designer explained. "It's all part of the fabric of who I am." Wildly colourful Missoni-inspired knits, skimpy hot pants and doses of gold lamé also screamed disco and punched up the playfulness.

"I think pregnancy must be good for design," mused movie mogul Harvey Weinstein. His wife, Marchesa designer Georgina Chapman, had a baby girl recently; this week, she and partner Keren Craig, who also had a baby last year, unveiled some of the most elaborate evening wear the label has ever produced. Besides its wow effect, the extraordinary workmanship suggested that the New York studios responsible might rival the finest Paris ateliers. In April, philanthropic Canadian fashionista Suzanne Rogers will bring the Marchesa collection to Toronto for a gala benefiting the Herbie Foundation.

Donna Karan's proposal for spring focused on the natural woman decked out in ivories, creams and beiges. A lot of ruching, pleating, wrinkles and soft ruffles gave her dresses and suits an organic, earthy feel. "There are at least a couple of those dresses I'm putting on my Christmas list," said model Karlie Kloss. The beige crystal-embroidered tulle gowns were especially striking.

Michael Kors insisted there was no place like home, riffing on both his Manhattan digs and his beach house. The resulting pieces were easy and breezy in a palette of both neutral shades and vibrant green punctuated by hot pink, sunflower yellow and hydrangea blue. Caramel coloured leather helped ground it all.

"She has taught me to take creative risks," Olympic champion Evan Lysacek said at Vera Wang. The skater, who is costumed by Wang, joined fans as disparate as tennis star Serena Williams and The Hills' Stephanie Pratt to cheer the designer on. Wang's Kill Bill take on spring paid homage to Japanese warriors and geishas. This designer's penchant for deconstruction and her artful sense of sculpture resulted in a diverse range of garments, from elegant floral silk dresses to short tulle cocktail dresses accented by long flowing trains.

This new relaxed attitude for spring is bound to be infectious. The best news is that there's going to be a wide range of very beautiful clothes to choose from. Ideally, all the choice will empower consumers - as long as they have the focus, courage and confidence to go with the flow.

Jeanne Beker is the host of FashionTelevision