MARA HVISTENDAHL
Special to The Globe and Mail Published on Wednesday, Sep. 16, 2009 12:00AM EDT Last updated on Friday, Sep. 18, 2009 3:23AM EDT
In a country where cultural venues are often housed in soulless malls, Taikang Road's winding, character-filled alleys offer a refreshing contrast. Since a group of artists moved their studios here in the late nineties, taking over an old candy factory on the southern edge of the French Concession, creative businesses have mushroomed in the adjoining alleys. Today, Taikang Road Art Street is a hip enclave filled with open-air cafés and eclectic boutiques, many housed in historic shikumen, or lane houses. Still boasting the dark wood, creaking stairs and antique furniture of old Shanghai, Taikang Road is an organic, less-touristy alternative to Xintiandi, the famous but developer-built shopping district.
These days Taikang remains popular among Shanghai's art set, who brunch here on weekends before heading north for art openings. Its restaurants are home to some of the city's most inventive chefs, who serve up cuisine spanning Asia and Europe, and its boutiques are among the best places in China to snag unique gifts such as Balinese lamps, funky teapots and updated qipao dresses. Stop in for lunch and spend the afternoon wandering the surrounding lanes. If you're not careful, you'll get lost and end up face to face with locals scrubbing their clothes in weathered outdoor sinks. But that's part of the fun. Here's our guide to the area's best flavours, crafts and jewels.
FANCY DRESS
At Cheong-sam, local designer Jia Lifang turns out custom qipaos, the tight-fitting slitted dresses popularized by 1920s Shanghai socialites. Choose from a broad selection of styles and fabrics, from subdued raw silk to animal-print velour. 50 Lane 248; 86 (021) 6473 2007.
GET THE PICTURE
Curated by Jean Loh, a French expat and Shanghai art legend, the unassuming Beaugeste Photo Gallery showcases works by China's leading photographers. Notable is Wang Gang, who won a World Press Photo award for his haunting images of Yi shepherds in western China.
5 Lane 210; 86 (021) 6466-9012; http://www.beaugeste-gallery.com
TIBETAN TREASURES
Joma, the gracious proprietor of Joma's Collection, keeps the elegant boutique stocked with turquoise necklaces, carved bangles and silk tapestries she picks up on trips home.
7 Lane 210; 86 (021)5465-2113
BRUNCH AND BARBECUE
Owned by Australian Kirk Jobsz, Kommune is outfitted with red leather chairs and bold Chinese propaganda art - but the standby brunch spot serves straightforward Western fare such as fine grilled paninis and fluffy omelettes. On weekends, crowds line up for all-you-can-eat Oz-style barbecue. 7 Lane 210, 86 (021) 6466-2416
A TASTE OF GINGER
The tiny Vietnamese restaurant Ginger Indochine serves up steaming bowls of delicately spiced noodles and pho; a second Ginger in the same lane offers coffee and snacks. 34 Lane 248; 86 (021)5465-9069; http://www.gingercafe.cn
A BOHEMIAN HANGOUT
The chic café Bohemia lives up to its name, drawing a crowd of hip expats - it's so packed, tables spill over into the adjacent alley. The menu includes savoury sandwiches (such as ham-and-Swiss on good ciabatta) and expert espresso. 42 Lane 248.; 86 (021) 6415-0065
ART OF OLD SHANGHAI
Run by a Shanghai artist, the Deke Erh Art Center features oil paintings, architectural photographs and English-language books on Shanghai's cultural history. The space also puts on occasional musical performances; call ahead for times.
2 Lane 210; 86 (021) 6415-0675; http://www.han-yuan.com
A TASTE OF CHOCOLATE
The pocket-sized chocolatier Truffles & Sweets, run by a former Sofitel pastry chef, is an open kitchen: Walk in and you can watch truffles being infused with flavours such as jasmine and ginger. 47 Lane 248; 86 (021)5465 7210.
STYLE FOR HIM
At JIP, a team of Hong Kong designers crafts a line of men's jewellery on an industrial theme. Check out the sleek, angular, silver cufflinks. 51 Lane 248; 86 (021) 6445-4479
A JEWEL OF THE THAI
An intimate Thai restaurant in an old house overlooking Taikang Road, Lapis Thai offers exquisite curries - plus a romantic setting that feels like Southeast Asia meets 1930s Shanghai. 14 Lane 248; 86 (021) 6473-3989
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