Boston's soul is its historic harbour, replete with tumbledown piers, old warehouses and overgrown patches of weeds where abandoned boats and engine parts decay. One can feel the ghosts of the common sailors and immigrant boys who unloaded the barrels of molasses from the West Indies, salt from Sicily and exotic spices from China. But this derelict waterfront, once the mercantile hub of a young rebellious country, is undergoing a metamorphosis: Long stretches are now lined with sleek yachts, shiny hotels and oh-so-expensive condos. Blending urban landscapes with sleek architectural design, this historic maritime area boasts miles and miles of must-see attractions.
With its artsy Fort Point Channel enclave full of galleries, the Rose Kennedy Greenway, the HarborWalk past every wharf in the neighbourhood, its museums, hip new eateries, old-school bars, harbour tours and little water taxis, the Waterfront is a mash-up, desolate and bustling, and on the cusp of becoming what developers and dreamers are calling the New Boston.
Take in the sea air along Boston's waterfront HarborWalk.— Judith Ritter
HARBOUR HIKE
Begin a Boston visit with the city's evolving HarborWalk. Four kilometres of this 62-kilometre walk follow the length of the Waterfront from the Coast Guard Station at Fairmont Battery Wharf, past the fine New England Aquarium and the Children's Museum, to the Institute of Contemporary Art. Along the way, you'll find observation points, binoculars and fascinating signage with historic photos. Stops include an exhibit of old maps of the Bay and a view of the once fortified harbour islands from an observation deck. For the weary, the best place to take a break is on the harbourfront terrace of the InterContinental Hotel. Here you can order a mint-and-lime-infused frozen tequila or, for true authenticity, a cool iced tea to sip while gazing out at the very spot in the harbour where the Boston Tea Party took place (the original one, of course). 374 Congress St., Suite 307; 617-482-1722; bostonharborwalk.com
THREE CENTURIES OF SHIPBUILDING
Don't miss the mini Maritime Museum on the Fairmont Battery Hotel property. Step inside and – to the piped sounds of sea shanties – learn the history of Battery Wharf and get a feel for Boston's three centuries of shipbuilding. This tribute to Boston's salty past is right next to a U.S. Coast Guard Station and its active duty ships. Located on the spot from which Paul Revere began his historic journey, the station boasts a floor crafted of lumber recycled from the old wharf and a giant oak timber from an 18th-century ship. Don't miss the video tracing the history of Battery Wharf from its start as a cannon emplacement. If you still can't get enough of ships and sailing vessels, you can scan the harbour from the museum's outdoor observation deck, open to the public 24 hours a day. 33 Battery Wharf; ww.bostonharborwalk.com
MEET THE ARTISTS, BUY THEIR WORK
The Fort Point Channel district has long been a hideout for Boston's boho set. Before the stop-and-start development in the area, artists resided and worked in barely livable warehouses and old factories. Now, there are official renovated “artist designated buildings” on A Street, Farnsworth and Summer streets. Most recently, the neighbourhood's artist organization opened an artist-run store-cum-gallery, Made in Fort Point. It's a shop on one side and gallery on the other, filled with paintings and photographs and work from neighbourhood jewellers. A visit to Made in Fort Point is an instant way to get a feel for this vibrant enclave and to meet local artists. Don't miss photographer Brian Bresnahan's hanging aluminum-framed light boxes or Ontario native Ann Scott's sensational landscape Afternoon Shadows. 12 Farnsworth St.; 617-423-1100; fortpointarts.org
The Institute of Contemporary Art is a must-visit to see the best of Boston's modern artists.— ICA
COOL QUOTIENT
When Boston's Institute of Contemporary Art opened its new building in what was then a desolate area of the waterfront, citizenry and critics alike were perplexed. The structure, which looks like a hulking chunk of quartz when approached from the rear, seems to float like an otherworldly translucent space station when viewed from the harbour side. Its glass walls and endless reflections create a dramatic backdrop for the small permanent collection including Tara Donovan's compelling Untitled (Pins), a one-metre cube made from thousands of compressed silver straight-pins. Roni Horn's 5-ton glass sculpture fills the museum's West Gallery until mid-June, and the provocative work of Mexican tattoo artist Dr. Lakra runs until early September. 100 Northern Ave.; www.icaboston.org
