Don't miss Aiguaclara Hotel, a romantic historic mansion, filled with comfy contemporary furniture, Spanish mosaic and vintage accessories. Innkeepers Jean and Clara can't do enough for you. From $197. www.aiguaclara.com
Old Begur's centre is a lively pedestrian square with a selection of great tapas bars. Hop from one outdoor table to the next, sampling fresh octopus, delicious fried peppers Padron, patatas brava and cava cava cava! Don't miss Bar De La Plaça (Plaça de la Vila, 3), Bar es Castell (Plaça de la Vila, 4) and El Tapas de Begur (Plaça de la Vila, 1).
Begur has almost no shopping, which is quite relaxing. Pick up a pair of real-deal espadrilles at the shop in town, or go down to Sa Riera beach and buy a few colours of the cheap ones. While you're down there, don't miss the uniquely refreshing drink horchata (in Catalan, it's "Orxata") and the tiny chocolate pastries from Croissanteria de Sa Riera, which are often hot from the oven. The hip young guys at the bar also pull a mean espresso, which they'll put over ice if you ask for " cafe amb gel."